The world of leather is vast and varied, so there are also several technical terms that are somewhat difficult to understand without some experience in the sector. One of these technical terms relates to leather finishing.
We understand finishing as the set of operations and treatments, essentially surface-related, that are applied to leather as the final part of the manufacturing process.
Finished leathers can be classified as follows:
1.- Finishes according to the amount of pigment:
This classification is based primarily on the degree of transparency, quantity, and type of pigment used. We find:
Aniline finish: The hide is coated with a transparent film using transparent organic pigments and protein binders, resins, and other non-covering products. It is one of the finest to the touch, making it one of the most delicate. This finish is achieved when the aniline color penetrates the pore, with the advantage that it does not change the surface or the cover. Color variations are inevitable, as each hide maintains its particular structure. But to your satisfaction, the hide retains the traces inherited by nature and the animal's life, such as: widening folds, insect bites, scars, scratches, marks, etc.
Semi-aniline finish: A finish with a certain covering power achieved by adding moderate amounts of pigment and appropriate products to maintain a less than fully covering effect of the grain. These types of leathers are usually colored with aniline and then pigmented. They have a layer of color to cover and protect them. Their surfaces are often smooth and have scars, depending on the model and finish.
Pigmented finish: These leathers are generally quite strong and exhibit good lightfastness. The grain of the hide is covered with a layer made from inorganic colors. The surface is smoothed for imperfections by cleaning. These types of leathers are sometimes embossed to give them a more attractive appearance. The pigmentation gives the hide good lightfastness and durability, although it reduces its smoothness and softness to the touch. Excellent durability with minimal maintenance.
2.- Finishes according to the type of binders:
Protein finishes: These are those that use protein binders such as casein.
Thermoplastic finishes: It is a finish that uses acrylic binders, butadienes, polyurethane-based binders or other thermodeformable resins.
3.- Final finishes:
Protein binders and polishing give the finishes their typical properties of high transparency, gloss, feel, natural appearance, excellent shine and transparency.
The skins are placed in a drum, as its name suggests, where they spend approximately 8 hours tumbling, hitting the drum walls and breaking the fibers. These fibers break down, causing the skin to be very soft and droopy once it leaves the drum. The longer it remains in the drum, the softer and smoother it will become. Throughout this process, the skin has acquired a kind of natural print or texture, unique to each skin.
It's a one- or two-component polyurethane finish. It consists of applying a thick layer of polyurethane to the leather surface, providing the leather's typical shine.
It is the finish that covers the leather with a pre-manufactured film transferred through a mechanical process, and all kinds of patterns and laminates are obtained in countless imitations and colors.
Florentique finish (novantique or brush off):
Full coverage finish that, through brushing action, provides a color contrast, filling effect, and intense shine.
It is achieved by impregnating the leather with oil, and when folded, it undergoes a reversible lightening. It improves the leather's water resistance and durability, giving it a unique aged appearance.
It is achieved by impregnating waxes and gently removing them with brushing. It is a rustic variation on aniline or semi-aniline finishes with a special intensity and contrasting color distribution.
Waxed, lucid or self-lucent finish:
The finishing process is reduced to the application of wax. The leathers have a completely natural appearance and should darken and shine when brushed. Wax is applied only to the grain side.
It is the finish that, through hot and molded plates, imitates all types of textures, transforming smooth leathers into imitation animal skins or various shapes.
For some items, a final ironing is carried out to slightly stiffen the leather and give it greater rigidity.
4.- Plush finishes:
It consists of sanding the grain side of any leather, regardless of its origin. In this case, we find split leather, nubuck leather, and suede leather. If you want to become an expert in differentiating between these three products with similar characteristics, you can consult our article Learn to differentiate between suede, split leather, and nubuck leather.
At La Tendeta del Cuero, we are industry professionals with over 20 years of experience and a wealth of knowledge about leather and its various finishes. If you have any questions or concerns, simply contact us through any of our available means of communication. We'd be happy to hear from you and help you.
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